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CLASSROOM: Stretching Hair Color for Clients by Krista Beahm

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Last Updated (Monday, 29 November 1999 19:00)

Your clients are looking to save money during a recession. Keeping your clients happy is key so Krista Beahm from patrick mcivor color studio offers the following creative tips to help your clients avoid getting their hair colored at each visit.

“With the economy in its current state, I have many clients that need to stretch their haircolor as far as they can, so I’m doing much more tone-on-tone natural looking color. Instead of a full head of highlights, I’ll do face framing highlights, colored ends, or darken the new growth area, because these looks require less maintenance.  Instead of foiling hair at every visit, clients can go 3-4 visits without getting highlights. These techniques ensure that I keep my clients, even when they have less to spend,” states Beahm.

Techniques
Face Framing Highlights:

  • Section about 1 to 1 1/2 inches around the hairline.
  • Next, take thin, back to back, diagonal, forward sections and backcomb at the new growth area to defuse the start line of the highlight. Once you get to the part of the hair (side or middle, doesn’t matter) foil about 3 to 4 foils back keeping them close together with a thin weave and backcombing the base of the hair shaft.
  • Then, continue diagonal forward sections on the other side.
  • After, glaze with Matrix Color Sync for a tone on tone effect.

Subtle Dimension Without Highlights:

  • The goal is to achieve a color that is darker at the base of the hair shaft and lighter through the mid-section and ends. 
  • Color new growth area 2 - 2 1/2 levels darker than original formula. 
  • After, section hair every inch or so, place a board under the new growth area and feather color down with a coloring brush to prevent a halo. Remember to take some sections farther down than others for a more natural look.
  • Glaze with Matrix Prizms.PLUS Clear for extra shine.

 

 

 

Patrick McIvor is the artistic color director for Matrix – the leading professional haircare and haircolor company in the United States and part of the L’Oreal USA Professional Products Division.  He owns patrick mcivor color studio (Bethlehem, PA) and studio two (Allentown, PA). As one of the most respected colorists in the industry, McIvor mentors his team by involving them in runway work at New York Fashion Week; fashion/beauty editorial shoots and interviews with publications like Cosmopolitan, glamour, Real Simple, Seventeen, Family Circle and Allure (editors named him best colorist in the USA); and television segments on “The 10! Show”/NBC Channel 10, WFMZ “Channel 69 News” and “Good Housekeeping Reports.”  His studio provides stellar hair services inspired by international cosmopolitan influences such as fashion, cultural and global trends. In other words, guests leave with beautiful, sexy believable hair.  McIvor is also featured in the book “50 Hairstylists.” www.patrickmcivorcolorstudio.com

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